Prodded and pummelled

The night bus from Bangkok got in early: 5.30am on a cold, dark, Northern Thailand morning.

We wandered into Chiang Mai as the sun rose. It's very touristy - with travel agents, internet cafes and guest houses lining the streets. Still, it's kept some of its original character with a moat and city wall ruins surrounding the centre. A bustling night market...Kate was in heaven.

We're staying in a small guest house, with a swimming pool for 350 baht a night - about 5 pounds. It used to be a safe house for one of the city mafia bosses.

Yesterday we were pummelled and stretched by two Thai ladies, allegedly in the name of relaxation. It didn't bode well when at the beginning of the massage each of Mark's toes let out resoundingly large pops as they were pulled.

Saying that, it was amazing. They weren't too rough on us as we were first timers and afterwards (but not at the time) we felt very relaxed. It certainly got rid of those knots in our shoulders.

There are 300 Wats (temples) to see here. 298 to go.